Mainbocher Corset

      

This iconic fashion photograph is by Horst P.Horst. It was taken in 1939, in Vogue’s Paris studio,but even now it is as modern as it looks back then. Many contemporary designers use this photo as an inspiration for their collections. His work frequently reflects his interest in surrealism and his passion for the ancient Greek ideal of physical beauty. Born in Germany as Horst Paul Albert Bohrmann, he chose to be known as Horst P.Horst. Some of the best known portraits of Coco Chanel were shot by Horst, and he continued to photograph her fashions for three decades, after meeting with her in New York in 1930’s. There were other celebrities photographed by Horst P. Horst, including Lisa Fonssagrives, Cole Porter and Elsa Schiaparelli.

       The “Mainbocher Corset” represents some of Horst’s artistic specifics. Most of his work is in black and white, with the subject being somewhat surrounded by light source.This photo itself carries a kind of erotically charged mystery, something that most viewers would like to know more about. It is eternally feminine photo, full of strength and sensuality. Taken many years ago, this photo captured a creation of American couturier Main Rousseau Bocher who founded a fashion label Mainbocher. The corset itself became a famous fashion item, because it radically altered the undefined silhouette of the thirties. The corset controversy proved to be a terrific marketing opportunity and the house of Mainbocher teamed up with the Warner Brothers Corset Company and streamlined the design for mass production.

     Horst' career truly reached Old Master status when the world's most famous pop goddess, Madonna, created her celebrated hymn to classic fashion photography with her single Vogue in 1990. The view of a platinum-haired model from the back, arms raised above a loosened ivory corset, was appropriated by Madonna in her 1990 "Vogue" video. Bruce Weber, one of many photographers influenced by Horst, artfully described his feelings about Horst's work in a 1992 television documentary… the elegance of his photographs took the viewer to another place, very beautifully; his ability to give his models the untouchable quality is really interesting as it gives you something of a distance; it's like seeing somebody from another world and you wonder who that person is and you really want to know that person and really want to fall in love with that person.