Glamorous Elegance

This photo is by Edward Steichen, one of the most important figures in the history of photography. He had a long and fulfilling career, and was also known as artist, curator, writer, and technical innovator in addition to being a fashion photographer. Owen Edwards of Smithsonian magazine said about him in May, 2009 issue” A painter by training, Edward Steichen changed fashion photography forever.” He didn’t invent fashion photography, but most critiques agree that he developed a template for the modern fashion photographer.

This particular photo shows two models wearing gowns by Madeleine Vionnet. The name of the model in white is unknown; Marion Morehouse, in black, was one of the photographer's favorite models.  The image truly depicts the ease of the movement for which the designer was known. Her nicknames included “Queen of the bias cut” and “the architect among dressmakers” and till today she receives the credits for inventing the bias cut as a way to create elegantly draped garments. The technique allows the dress to cling to the body while also moving easily with the wearer. The flattering silhouettes such as handkerchief dress, cowl neck and halter top which are widely used in a modern fashion were first introduced to the fashion world by Vionnet. Edward Steinchen took this photo in 1930, and it reflects the fashion of that time, with its elegance, glamour, luxury and a hint of mystique.

Corset

         This photo is by famous fashion photographer Jeanloup Sieff. The photographer joined Magnum Agency in 1958, and his work for them made him travel to many different countries. He settled in New York for a number of years in 1960s where he worked for Esquire, Glamour, Vogue and Harper's Bazaar, becoming extremely popular in America. It is during these years that this photo was taken. The name of this important work could not be any simpler than it is – “Corset.”

           This is how photographer himself described the experience of this photo shoot in his monograph: “'It was the beautiful Anka, with her desperately tiny waist, who posed in this 1900 corset. In spite of her slim figure, she found it difficult to breathe”.  “Corset” tells a story about fashion history.  It shows an iconic image of a beauty symbol that dominated fashion world till the beginning of 20^th Century.  Viewers can see how uncomfortable this model is wearing a corset. It was a common fashion for women for several centuries to wear corset underneath of the dresses. The idea was to make waist look smaller thus creating an hourglass silhouette. Most historical photographs showing women in corsets make modern women feel sorry for their predecessors, and this image does it too, but at the same time it is a very sensual and exciting picture to look at. The difference is in the photographer. He intrigues the viewers and let them see a corset from a different point of view. The lighting and composition of this photo focus attention directly onto the model’s hips and waist. Her pose with the slightly crossed legs helps to enhance the "hourglass" shape of the body.  After a while, the beauty of a picture becomes more important than the feeling sorry part.

        This photo seems quite simple in composition and color choices, but at the same time this beautiful work of art is also a controversial image. Should fashion be comfortable and practical, or better serve our esthetic needs and let the model suffer? Is the hourglass figure still a symbol of femininity?  Who decides on what is an ideal beauty image?